Birdhouses and Nesting Boxes.
Choosing the right birdhouse and attracting the right birds.
Small Bird Houses
Large Bird Houses
Nesting Accessories |
 Bewicks Wren |
When Is the Right Time to Put up a Birdhouse?
Anytime is a fine time to Put up a birdhouse. Even if it is not nesting season a bird may use the shelter a house provides to get out of the sun or rain, and when nesting season rolls around It will be ready to house a family. |
|
There are few things in life more rewarding than watching the emergence of a
new life into this world. If you are lucky the birdhouse or nesting box you
put up this winter has given birth to a downy little face peeking forth from
the entrance, a tiny beak and two beady eyes peering out into the world for
the first time. It shakes a little, and moves awkwardly before leaping out
and spreading it's newly fledged wings to flutter off into the sky.
Congratulations! Your efforts have paid off, and a family of birds has
grown, if only a little, thanks to luck and your vigilant nurturing.
Luck does indeed play some role in whether or not your efforts in bird
housing pay off, but there are some things you can do to skew the odds in
your (and your feathered friend's) favor. To start with, you can make sure
you select a house or nesting box that will both be attractive to the right
kind of bird, and protect the bird's family from predators as well as the
elements.
When choosing a birdhouse there are several things to look for.
First,
consider what kind of birds you wish to attract, and make sure the birdhouse
or nesting box is appropriately sized. Bluebirds, chickadees, swallows, wrens
and other small birds are attracted to homes with smaller openings. An
opening of 1 1/4" to 1 1/2" allows these birds to enter the home, while
preventing larger species, especially starlings from setting up shop.
Flickers, woodpeckers, ducks and other larger birds require larger boxes or
houses with much larger openings. Unfortunately you will not be able to
exclude pest birds from such houses by the size of the opening.
Once you have decided which birds you wish to attract and know the proper
size home to use, make sure the home you select has these important features:
1. Ventilation. A proper birdhouse or nesting box should have some space
between the roof and the sides of the box to allow for ventilation. It is
possible that without this fledglings or eggs could overheat and be
killed. Also, a wet nest might not properly dry out later inviting fungus, mold or
disease.
2. Drainage. There should be a few small holes in the floor to allow any
rain or moisture that does happen to get in to drain away by gravity. Once
again without drainage the risk of fungus, mold, and disease increase, not
to mention the possibility of the home actually filling with water and
drowning or washing out the residents. An upwardly recessed floor will also
help prevent seepage inside the home during wet weather. A long roof
overhang will help keep the interior dry as well by keeping rain from
getting in.
3. A shaded opening. It can be quite important to keep the opening of the
house shaded, especially in the summer since some species incubate their
eggs at very controlled temperatures, and if the temperature inside the home
elevates even a few degrees the eggs might not hatch. Not only this, but you
run the risk of the parent birds overheating and abandoning the home, or
even dying. Many birdhouses or nesting boxes have roofs that overhang the
entrance for just this reason.
4. A protected opening. Predators are cunning and persistent animals when
presented with an easy meal. Luckily several modifications in nest box
construction over the years have reduced the possibility of nest predation. Look for homes that have a deep entrance hole, or a "predator guard" that
extends the depth of the entrance hole. A deep entrance will prevent
raccoons, jays or cats from being able to simply reach inside and grab a
young bird. A long roof also has the same effect. Cats will try to sit on
top of a nesting box and watch for a chance to snag a meal. If the roof
overhang is large enough such a tactic is useless. Also make sure the home
you decide on lacks a perch. Very few birds will even use a perch outside
the nest entrance, and it makes it easy for predators, especially predatory
birds, to simply sit outside the home and take advantage of your birds.
5. Easy to clean. Most birdhouses or nesting boxes have a pivot or hinged
opening near the bottom of the house to allow for easy cleaning. It is very
important to be sure to clean the box between uses. Removing any old nests
will ensure that any parasites are also removed, and that the next
inhabitants will not build their nest up so high on top of the old one that
it is easy for predators to get to, or the young to fall out of.
6. The right materials. The best bird houses and nesting boxes are made
from wood or natural materials. Though there are many decorative metal
houses available we cannot recommend them since it is possible that the
metal construction could contribute to the interior overheating during hot
weather. Wood is much easier for birds to cling to as well, which helps the
young when they are emerging from the nest. Some houses even carve little "steps" into the front wall to help. It is entirely possible for young birds
to become trapped inside the house and die. Painting a house is also
questionable. While it does make a house more appealing to us, unnatural
colors or patterns could attract attention from unwanted predators, not to
mention the possibilities of toxic paint poisoning the birds themselves. It
is especially important not to paint the interior of the house since there
is a good chance that the young will end up chipping the paint and
inevitably swallowing some of the chips.
Once you have chosen the appropriate nest box or birdhouse the next step is
placing it so that the right birds will find and use it.
Different birds
will be attracted to the same house depending on where you put it and how
high it is off the ground. Most of the time placing a birdhouse or nesting
box 5 or 6 feet off the ground is good enough to attract many different
kinds of birds that will accept it as a potential nesting location, and
protect it from predators. However some birds, like swallows and nuthatches
appreciate a little more elevation, between 10-20 feet high. They are
simply genetically programmed to nest in higher locations that make them
feel safer from predation. This doesn't mean that a swallow or nuthatch
won't nest in a lower location, only that it is less likely.
It is a good idea to face the nest box or house toward the north or the east
to prevent overheating from too much sun, and to keep the entrance away from
the prevailing winds which will drive precipitation into the entrance, or
generally make it difficult for the birds to use. Strong winds are also a
good reason not to hang a birdhouse from a tree branch or limb. The swaying
and twisting may not bother some birds, but most would much prefer their
nest to be in a more stable environment.
It may seem like mounting the birdhouse on a nearby tree is a good idea, but
before you do, ask yourself these questions: Will the birds you are trying to
attract see the birdhouse? How hard (or easy) is it for a cat or raccoon to
climb the tree and reach the nest? Will mounting the birdhouse on the tree
damage the tree? Birds love trees, but mounting a birdhouse to one is not
always the best idea. In the first place the tree's foliage might
camouflage the birdhouse so well that the birds you are trying to attract
might not even be able to find it. Secondly, trees are extremely easy for
predators to climb. Sometimes they will climb right up to the house, sit on
the roof and reach into the birdhouse with a paw trying to grab a snack. And
on top of that, nailing anything to your tree (depending on the tree) might
actually be detrimental to your tree over the course of its life.
It is best to mount the birdhouse or nesting box in a somewhat open area, in
clear view near a tree or bush that the birds will be able to use as a
survey point to land and check out the house before they move in. Mounting
on a post, pole, or dead tree is preferable, however if the conditions are
right tree mounted birdhouses are acceptable. Many birds naturally nest in
dead trees so it makes sense that mounting your birdhouse on a dead tree
would be more inviting to them. It also lacks the foliage of live trees,
leaving the birdhouse exposed and easy to see. By the same token, if
predators try to approach the nest there is no foliage to help conceal them
from the birds. Mounting on a post or pole is even better, being both more
difficult for predators to climb, and easier for the birds to find. Many
birdhouses have the ability to be mounted directly to the top of a metal
pole securely staked, buried or cemented into the ground. The metal pole is
practically impossible for predators to climb, and there are usually several
varieties of baffles available that can be fixed below the birdhouse to make
sure they will never reach the birds.
If you plan on hosting multiple bird families remember not to place their
homes too closely together. Most birds are territorial and will defend the
area around their nests against interlopers. Ideally multiple birdhouses or
nest boxes should be placed about 25' apart in locations that cannot be seen
by one another. There are a few exceptions for species like martins and
some sparrows that will nest in colonies, but for most birds this is a good
general rule. Of course this means that you need to make sure that any
birdhouse is also far enough away from your birdfeeders and birdbaths that
your brooding bird family doesn't pick fights with any innocent bystanders
who show up to eat or bathe. It may seem funny at first, but over time many
little fights will take their toll on your tiny bird friends, making them
aggressive, agitated, and stressed out. They may even abandon your
birdhouse thinking it is too much trouble to defend, or be forced out by
bigger more competitive birds. Either way it's not good for the birds.
Bearing this in mind there are occasions when it might be alright to place two birdhouses closer together. Usually this works when the houses are occupied by different species. If the birds are not are not of the same species they will generally not compete with each other, and in fact can be quite helpful as both sets of parents will protect the area forming a kind of cooperative defense while not disturbing each other. Attempts to produce these results usually require the houses to be more like 10 feet apart or even closer, and may not always work out. The most common cooperative species we have seen are tree swallows and bluebirds. Since they generally nest at different heights they tend not to compete for nesting sites if properly placed and can actually be quite friendly neighbors.
Finally remember that as a responsible avian landlord it is your
responsibility to clean out the birdhouse at least once a year, so wherever
you place it make sure it won't be too much of a chore. In fact, the easier
the better. Leaving your new tenants a welcome gift of fresh nesting
material is a great way to make them feel welcome. Filling the bottom of
the new birdhouse with a layer of fresh cedar sawdust or sanitary cotton or
wool helps make the house more attractive to potential tenants. Just make
sure that the level of the nest won't come too close to the entrance hole or
predators could too easily reach it, or the young fall right out.
At last you have the right house, in the right location, and now the
question comes...What birds do I get? Most people try to attract the more
beautifully plumaged, or voiced local birds, but as we all know, we don't
always get what we want. And for the most part we are all wise enough to
accept what we get and enjoy it. But what can you do when your carefully
placed, well constructed birdhouse is invaded by a rude and invasive
species, like a starling or a house sparrow? Starlings and house sparrows
are both species introduced into North America from Europe. They have
out-competed and out-bred many of the native species and threaten to slowly
eliminate many of them. One of the reasons is that there are so many of
them that when nesting season comes they take up most of the best nesting
locations leaving the native species to try and protect their brood in more
dangerous areas. In fact adding birdhouses to your yard or property is a
great way to help the native species try to recover, but only if they are
not usurped by those very same problem birds.
So what can you do to keep those birds away and out of your birdhouses?
Well, it may be fighting an uphill battle but there are some things you can
do. First, try not to attract those birds to your yard. By not using
millet in your birdfeeders you can keep the number of sparrows and
starlings down. Both species like millet and are attracted to feeders that
use it. Suet, peanuts, and sunflower chips are also sure to attract starlings, so try not to put them out until your nesting areas are filled. Try nyjer thistle and whole black oiled sunflower instead.
These seeds
help encourage native species to feed at your feeders and hopefully one of
them will move into your birdhouse. Another trick is to block up the
entrance of your birdhouse until you notice a lot of native birds, or birds
you want to nest in your birdhouse. Then unblock the opening and
hope for the best. Oftentimes sparrows and starlings will overwinter in an
area, or arrive first in the migrations and hog-up all the best nesting
spots, including your nest box! So pay attention and block those entrances
up until the native species return. It also helps to block up any natural
nesting areas around your place, like open eaves, outdoor shelves and other
spots where you know invasive species will naturally nest. They may not
usurp your bluebird box because the entrance hole is too small, but if they
happen to build a nest in the eave of your house right next to it then
they'll defend the whole area and chase off any birds it might attract.
Inevitably every year some of us lose the battle and end up with sparrows
and starlings anyway. What do you do then? Really there isn't much you can
do. Open up the box and remove any nest and eggs, clean it out, and hope
the pesty perpetrators don't come back and start over. Often they will.
Repeat the process...as many times...as...necessary. It doesn't always
work. You can try blocking up the entrance as well and maybe it will
discourage the birds enough to look elsewhere, but then when you open it up
again they might come right back. It's an imprecise science and we are to a
certain extent at the mercy of Mother Nature.
Every year there are also those birdhouses and nest boxes that go unused.
Nothing is more frustrating than going through all that effort to pick out
and set up a birdhouse and having it go unused all year. The only thing to
be done is to try another location next year. If it happens again, then
move it again. If the house is a good one it should eventually bear you
some fuzzy feathered fruit. Using the tips in this article you should be
able to find a good nesting box or birdhouse and a good location that
practically guarantees you a happy and healthy family of bird buddies year
after year. Good luck and good birding!
| Dimensions of nesting boxes for various species of birds that regularly use them, and the height at which they should be placed above the ground. |
| Species |
Floor Of Cavity |
Depth Of Cavity |
Entrance Above Floor |
Diameter Of Entrance |
Height Above Ground |
| (In Inches) |
(In Feet) |
| Bluebirds |
5x5 |
8 |
6 |
1 1/2 |
5-10 |
| Chickadees |
4x4 |
8-10 |
6-8 |
1 1/8 |
6-15 |
| Titmouse |
4x4 |
8-10 |
6-8 |
1 1/4 |
6-15 |
| Nuthatches |
4x4 |
8-10 |
6-8 |
1 1/4 |
12-20 |
| House/Bewick's Wren |
4x4 |
6-8 |
1-6 |
1-1 1/4 |
6-10 |
| Tree/V-G swallows |
5x5 |
6 |
1-5 |
1 1/2 |
10-15 |
Small Bird Houses
Large Bird Houses
Nesting Accessories |